Preserving the Heritage and Culture

Over Easter weekend, a group of us walked up the mountain-
side above Barichara to see a very very old house and enjoy
the view. A bit hazy and I slipped a bit as I was taking the shot.

Barichara is about to face some serious challenges in the weeks and months ahead. A small village that has been designated an historical monument, it is also one of the cleanest, prettiest and culturally diverse places to be found in Colombia. (There are at least nine more I'd like to see and which are being promoted by the department of cultural history.) And as is the consequence of attraction, there are people with money coming in to build. Not all of them are ex-patriots, but rich Colombians who want to 'get away' from their city lives in this remote (sort of) place.

But with these affluent people comes change, change which is not particularly desirable in all cases. It was with foresight that a law was passed in 2006 which prohibited removal of old roads, old stone fences and demolishing of heritage plants and places. Unfortunately, that hasn't stopped some folks from moving ahead and doing what they want to do to serve their own interests.

This preservation group gathered in front of the
cathedral in Barichara for a Heritage walk in March 2012.

Recently a group aiming to bring this issue of violation of preservation law met in Barichara for a walk in the countryside and to point out what damages are occurring because of this lack of the law being enforced. Over the loud noise of the cicadas in the park, a conversation with one of the group informed me that an old road, paved with the old large stones from 300 years ago, had been ripped up for a new road for cars to drive on, completely altering both the landscape and the past. People who are building here want some of these old stones in their houses and because they are willing to pay for the 'piedras,' (rocks) the demand apparently makes it possible for this theft of the past. It is very sad to think that colored paper with numbers on it can obliterate a far richer history.

One thing I've noticed over the past few seasonal events is that the 'tourists' (all those people who come in from the outside, whether from Colombia or some other country) seem to be afraid to smile. The ones who drive here in huge vehicles look grim as they try to maneuver the narrow and sometimes bumpy streets. The others walking around look as if this was a duty posting, not something they are enjoying. People! Why are you bothering to come here if you can't be happy? Baricharians used to smile all the time, but I notice it takes a few days after everyone leaves before the smiles come back. I cannot save the smiles all by myself, folks. If you are coming here, please help me out by smiling - at least once in awhile.

This is one of the very old houses scattered around Barichara that are of
great historical value and should be protected from vandals and other
elements of change. It is on private land, but not all the others are.

Also, it appears that some people are attempting to stir up a pot with claims that new people are wanting to change the culture, the traditions of Barichara, lodging complaints about various things. I won't go into them here because they don't deserve acknowledgement except to say that no one in their right mind would try to arrest the crowing cock for making too much noise, or issue an eviction notice to frogs for croaking past midnight, or to even attempt stopping the ringing of church bells which serve many functions in this pueblo. The real issue is that of fear: fear that with changes what is now known and regular will be something very different in the future. It is also fear that those changes will leave long-time residents of Barichara disenfranchised in some way.

I fully support, and always have, the tide floating all boats; bringing everyone along in a good way. It is up to all of us, new residents and those long established here, to work together so that no one feels left out and everyone commits to a partnership of both keeping Barichara the clean and charming village it is now and also making sure regulations and laws are enforced to prevent the very wealthy from destroying the very element that brought them here in the first place.

This is the Datura, also sometimes known as Angel Trumpet.
My research shows that it might better be categorized as
Brugmansia as South American plants are more woody, tree-
like, and having pendulous flowers. Delicate scent. 

Domingo de Ramos / Palm Sunday

Preparing the young man representing Jesus
for the procession of the palms up to the
cathedral, making the start of Semana Santo.

Many of the vendors in the mercado today were selling
ornately woven palm fronds for this event. This lady was
studying the design while waiting for the procession to go.

I was up early, went to market, had breakfast and put on freshly washed and ironed clothes to watch and record the procession of palms from the old entrance into Barichara (near the old bridge) up to the cathedral. My new casa is located not far from the old bridge, so I was able to get there on time this year. (Last year I was living about 20 minutes away in La Loma and missed the whole thing.)

It was already pretty warm by Santander standards and people were using their palm fronds for head shade while waiting for the procession to begin. Parents, grandparents, darling little boys and girls all scrubbed and polished, done up for the event which marks the beginning of Holy Week also known as Semana Santo. While I was in San Gil on Friday, it was clear that for most of the school children the end of classes for a week mark their beginning to the holiday and they were celebrating with the joy that only those who are sitting in classrooms in uniform and then are liberated can feel.

The procession is approaching the cathedral and I was crouched down in
order to be below the heads of people behind me who were watching on
the street. I am considered very tall by Colombian standards.

For those who live or work along the route
of the procession, it is a common sight to
see floral tributes in windows, beside doors
and even attached to utility poles.

For those families who live here, this marks a time of gathering in, with relatives coming from far away to join in the festivities and celebration as well as the sacred remembering of the events with much Catholic pomp and presentation. It is also a time when there is much drinking, setting off of firecrackers, dancing, and general revelry, often until the very wee hours of the mornings, except Maundy Thursday and Holy Friday when there is no drinking allowed.

This afternoon I will be joining with my local 'family group' to have a luncheon up in the hills outside the village. There is a dance presentation later on and other musical and artistic events all week long so it should be interesting.

My new living arrangements are pure delight for me and for the cats as well. We are close enough to the action to know about it, but not necessarily exposed to the high noise levels of being in proximity to the park and the cathedral. And there are no issues of leaks and such which necessitated the move in the first place.

It is a much smaller house, and although an older one by local standards, it was renovated with new baths, updated electrical system and is generally more agreeable. Back with more photos later today, I expect.

American Diner Featured in Barichara

De Tin Marin offers two levels of dining in a 1950's
American diner atmosphere near Parque Cementerio.

The fascination with the American early Rock n' Roll scene has caused some enterprising Colombians to re-create an American diner here in Barichara, complete with hamburgers, french fries and the real Coca-cola in bottles, not cans.

Just up from the cathedral, near the Parque Cementerioat Carrera 6a No. 2-50, you are in for a surprise.

Tonight on my walk I discovered a new and fun restaurant, "De Tin Marin," (roughly translated, I believe, from the child's game of 'eeney, meeney, miney, moe' used when you are trying to pick/choose something or someone) is now open for business but not enough people know about it so no one was eating just then. The staff was pleased to have me come and take pictures and if I had planned properly I would have also had something to eat - it smelled wonderful inside!

Superman, hand-wringing washers, barber chairs, jukeboxes and so
much more will catch your eyes and memories (if you are old enough) at
De Tin Marin in Barichara, Santander, Colombia.

With two levels, there is seating for about 60 or so people with a red, white and black decor and the wonderful metallic round stools and tall tables, plus comfortable booth dining harking back to the mid-50's.  It is not easy to find the American gas pumps, barber chairs and other fun items of that period here, so I can only guess that some of these items came from someone's collection.

A basic hamburger is $5,000 COPs (about $2.75 USD) and a 'perro sencillo' (hot dog) is about the same. There will be shrimp cocktail for $10,000 ($5.75 USD) and arepas and patacon as well in the same price range as the burgers and dogs. Drinks range from $1,500 (one mil cinco) for a 'pop' (gaseosa in Spanish) to $40,000 for a flacon of red wine (merlot or cabernet). For the heavy hitters, there will be Chivas Regal whiskey in 375 cc glasses at $60,000 COPs, a little over $36 USD, I'd guess, if the exchange rate stays about where it is now. Not exactly what you'd find in an American diner then or now, but this is supposed to be entertainment after all.

"The Flying Horse" from Mobilgas was a
hit on my memory from the '50's in another
place far from Colombia.

This week is the precursor to the week of Semana Santa, so Barichara will be filling up with plenty of people from outside visiting and I am sure this will turn out to be a hot spot with a jukebox playing some of the "Oldies" and goodies from 5 -10 p.m. Monday night through Thursday and from 5-12 on the weekends. Don't know if there will be anyone dancing the jitterbug, but perhaps I could go and give lessons.

It crossed my mind that perhaps they will get so busy they'd like to have an authentic 'be-bopper' chewing gum, in bobby sox and a poodle skirt running around taking orders in English... it was just an idea - but an ancient teenager? Probably would be better if I just go and sit and quietly have one of the hamburguesas and remember what it was like all those decades ago when the Peterborough Diner was still in operation, the movie theatre was next to the Mobil gas station that 'Jeep' ran and a Coke was a different drink than it is today.

Harleys in Colombia? Si!

All around the central square and on many of the side streets, there were
bikes and there were Bikes... Harley Davidson to be precise. About 200
one of the organizers estimated, but I didn't count and it looked like more.

And in Venezuela and Brazil and... now Barichara. It was a sort of “Bike Day” instead of a whole week, but well over 200 Harley Davidson motorcycles of all vintages and styles, from all over Colombia and other places, came roaring into this normally quiet village in north-central Colombia, 5000 feet up in the Andes mountains. Staged from their gathering spot in San Gil, (the extreme sports capital of Colombia) apparently a large number of bikers enjoyed a lunch out in the country before arriving at the central square about 2:30 p.m.

Yesterday I heard four of them arriving as those throaty pipe sounds reverberated off the stone streets and rammed earth walls. I had to go out and see, of course, and sure enough the riders were just getting off as a crowd gathered to take pictures and ask questions. One young boy was clearly eager to get much closer, but his father held him back and if I was a betting woman, I am sure that 25 years from now he will have found a way to realize his dream to be really close.

There was a huge speaker system playing Colombian music as the “vroom-vroom” and rumbling, chest-vibrating motors assembled all around the park, making an interesting kind of modern rhythm. I managed to grab a photo of what I thought was the HD Motors team from Colombia posing, although I later learned one of the guys in the shot was from Venezuela. And apparently not ALL the big bikes were HDs as I spotted several hefty BMWs, Hondas and Yamahas.

A fellow from Bogota spoke English very well and told me he had been to the U.S. and had ridden a Harley thousands of miles, exploring much of the country. He said, “There is no better way to experience a country than by riding through it on a motorcycle, seeing and hearing and smelling the land around you.” I partially agree as a former 'biker', but now instead of 1200 horses, I would be quite happy on just one.

This looks like a vintage Harley with a sidecar. But I was
also looking at the flag... it does say FLORIDA on it!

This visit to Barichara is just one of several events that Harley Davidson of Colombia organizes and while some folks might complain about the noise, I found it entertaining for the short time they were all here and I am sure some of the shopkeepers were glad for the business.

So all you Harley riders in the U.S., it’s time to experience 129 turns in 25 kilometers (that’s coming from San Gil to Barichara) or come and see some other parts of this amazing country of Colombia by bike, and I’ll bet Harley Davidson in the U.S. can help you make that happen through their contacts in Colombia.

A Fascination with Japan

One year later, after the devastating earthquake and tsunami, Japan proves its capabilities in rebuilding, at least on the construction level. I cannot imagine the horrific loss of family members and friends from such an event. Over this past year periodically I have watched videos and listened to audios of the disaster, as it was too much to do earlier. And now, a year later, rubble and reminders are washing up on the western shores of the U.S. (Ghost ship drifts toward Canada)

I think my fascination with Japan has its roots in my relationship with my grandmother who had a flair for exotic fabrics and clothes which she draped around her or which she had made into interesting things to wear. As a child I was allowed to go into her attic and walk over the creaky boards to the far corner where she had a huge wooden and metal trunk, the kind you see in old movies that people used for shipping their goods to foriegn lands.

When I opened it, the smells of oldness and adventure would rush up to my nose and I would lift up the ancient silk kimono carefully, just as my grandmother would appear behind me to caution me to do just that. I both dreaded her appearance and welcomed it because there were always stories about how these items came into her trunk, but partly I dreaded her invasion of my imagination.

There were tiny little silk cloth slippers with delicate flowers and leaves embroidered on them having a place for a big toe separated from the rest of the foot which was a matter of great curiosity to me. My feet were already too large to try them on, but I delighted in hearing from my grandmother how the ladies walked in little mincing steps on wooden platforms with their silk kimonos tightly wound around their petite frames.

My grandmother Elsa was not one to 'play' with her grandchildren. Instead she would offer up tales of her travels and punctuate these revelations with her unassailable philosophy that war of any kind was both horrible and unnecessary. After her beloved husband, Alain, was killed in World War I in a car accident in France, she worked as a nurse over there for some time before returning home to their four children.

Her diaries show her personal objective to strive toward world peace, as do her poems and essays. And she did travel many times around the world to seek audiences with various world leaders, including a trip to Japan. Her stories were always replete with descriptions of the regalia of the local country she was visiting, so it was like having Rudyard Kipling at my beck and call.

It is distressing to think of Japan as being "off-limits" because of the radiation or more serious disasters like the one a year ago. It is one of my goals to go to visit that country, providing all aspects are supported - my health, my wealth, and the condition of Japan's environment. Intending the peoples of Japan continue to heal from their trials and this one-year noting brings encouragement to all the world.

The Blue was new.... at least to me

I didn't know it when I took the photo that this man is the
father of twin girls who would be seated with the rest of
the family (boy 3, and girl 5, and Mama) across the aisle
from me and who I would later help disembark in Bogota.

This is the first time I’ve flown on jetBlue, but they offer a direct flight from Orlando, FL to Bogota and back. No stopping in the MIami crazzzzziness, no layovers waiting to get another flight on to Bogota or from Miami to someplace else. Yippee!

Look at all that legroom!
And the leather seats!

And their promise about the seats is all they say it is!

When I was trying to decide how to go back to Colombia, I looked at all the options. Because it is harder and harder to redeem air miles, it hardly matters whether I fly on one airline or another, they all seem to arrive in Bogota after 9 p.m. (even from MIami) and so I began looking for flights from Orlando. American Airlines, Spirit and Continental all have flights, but they have at least one stop. 

Then I needed to determine how to get to the airport. MCO (Orlando International) is about 2.5 hours from Lake City and while JAX (Jacksonville International) is only a little more than an hour away, the cost is huge to fly out of there and connections are awkward. I found a shuttle service operating from Ocala (Florida’s horse country if you are not familiar with the name) which is also about an hour from the house. Last time I drove to Orlando, I parked the car for two weeks and drove home again for the same cost as a one-way bus fare to Orlando. But as I am going to be gone longer this time, parking the car was not the best choice this time.

Once I took a bus to Ft. Lauderdale to get on Spirit which flies direct from there to Bogota. I had to pay for everything except using the loo... turned out not to be such a bargain after all. And the bus ride was horrendously long. After flying out of Orlando, it will be my first choice most of the time and apparently I’m not alone with that idea... the TSA lines are 30 minutes long during the week - the only drawback.

The shuttle turned out to be a great idea. I got a ride to my pick-up spot and then was dropped off about an hour and half later right at my airline. They will pick me up and take me back to the same spot, and if I have to wait for a ride home, there is a fancy restaurant and even hotel accomodations if I have to wait too long!

The full moon was rising (you can see it just above
the wingtip) and as night fell, the moonlight danced
on the silver wings of the jet - a lovely sight.

What else do I now love about jetBlue? Free entertainment, seats with plenty of room, free snacks, mileage points, cheerful flight attendants and a flight that gets me to and from Bogota directly!! The price was very reasonable, too.... so if you are thinking about coming to visit me in Colombia, maybe the Blue is for you.

(No, they are not paying me to say all this, but I hope they will check in and find out they have a very satisfied customer.)

NOTE: I found a 'boutique' hotel in Bogota for a really decent rate and will take some pictures tomorrow in the daylight. Then it's back to Barichara and my project list. And certain special people will understand the fascination with twins - more on that later.